Practical, evergreen guides to the Gili Islands, Bali and Lombok: getting there, where to stay, diving and snorkelling, the best time to visit and more.

Gili Air is the closest of the three Gili Islands to Lombok and, for many travellers, the easiest to love. It has the calm, swimmable beaches of Meno and a slice of Trawangan's social energy, without the crowds or the late nights of either. If you want one island that does a bit of everything, this is it. Where to stay. Accommodation on Gili Air runs from simple backpacker bungalows to a growing number of stylish boutique stays, most a short walk from the beach. The east and south coasts are the busiest, with the most restaurants and dive shops; the north and west are quieter and better for sunsets and snorkelling straight off the sand. Book ahead in the dry season, when the best places fill early. Where to eat. For its size, Gili Air eats very well. You will find beachfront warungs serving fresh grilled fish, healthy cafes with smoothie bowls and good coffee, and a handful of pizza, Indian and seafood spots. Many bars do a sunset happy hour on the west coast; dinner tends to be relaxed and barefoot rather than formal. Getting around. There are no cars or motorbikes, which is half the appeal. You walk, hire a bicycle for a few dollars a day, or flag down a cidomo, the small pony-drawn cart that doubles as the island taxi. The whole island loops in about an hour and a half on foot, so most people never need more than their own two feet. Practicalities. Gili Air has a few ATMs, but they can run dry, so bring some cash from the mainland. There is no hospital, only basic clinics, so travel sensibly. The water is warm year-round and the snorkelling, turtles included, starts just off the beach. To reach the other islands, hop on the public shuttle boat between Air, Meno and Trawangan. Come for a couple of days, and do not be surprised if you end up rebooking your boat for later in the week.

Gili Air is a small island, but doing nothing here is an activity in itself, and when you do feel like moving there is more than enough to fill a few slow days. Snorkel from the beach. The reef starts just metres off the sand on the north and west coasts, and green turtles are a near-daily sight. Rent a mask and fins from any dive shop and swim out, or join a snorkelling boat trip that loops all three islands and stops at the best turtle spots. Learn to dive, or just fun-dive. Gili Air has a friendly, low-pressure dive scene with several reputable centres. It is a lovely place to take an Open Water course in warm, forgiving water, and an easy place to log relaxed dives if you are already certified. Cycle the island. A loop of Gili Air by bicycle takes under an hour and is the best way to find your favourite stretch of beach. The paths get sandy in places, so expect to push now and then. Chase the sunset. The west coast is the island's front-row seat for sunset over Bali's Mount Agung on a clear evening. Grab a beanbag at a beach bar, order a drink, and watch the sky change. Do a yoga class or a spa hour. Several places offer drop-in yoga and massage, a natural fit for an island built around slowing down. Eat your way along the coast. Fresh seafood barbecues, smoothie bowls, wood-fired pizza and good coffee are all within a short walk. Make dinner a wander rather than a destination. Take a day trip to Meno or Trawangan. The public shuttle boat makes it easy to spend a quiet day on Meno or a lively night on Trawangan and be back on Air by the next morning. None of it is rushed, and that is the point. Gili Air rewards travellers who let the days find their own shape.

Bali is not one destination but many, and the single most important decision you will make is where to base yourself. Each region has a distinct character, and the wrong choice can colour a whole trip. Here is how the main areas compare for a first visit. Canggu and Berawa. The current favourite of surfers, digital nomads and a younger crowd. Cafes, co-working, beach clubs and a strong social scene, with surf for most levels. Lively and walkable in parts, but the traffic can be heavy. Seminyak. Upscale and polished: the widest range of restaurants and beach clubs, good shopping, and a beach you can actually stroll. A comfortable, well-connected base if you want style without roughing it. Ubud. Bali's cultural heart, inland and cooler, surrounded by rice terraces, temples and forest. The place for yoga, wellness, art and day trips into the island's centre and north. No beach, but plenty of soul. Uluwatu and the Bukit. Dramatic clifftop scenery, world-class surf, and some of the island's most striking beaches and cliff bars. Spread out, so you will want transport. Sanur and Nusa Dua. Calmer, family-friendly and resort-focused, with gentle beaches. Sanur is also a main fast-boat port for the Nusa islands and the Gilis. Jimbaran and Legian. Jimbaran for seafood on the beach and a relaxed pace; Legian as a middle ground between Kuta's buzz and Seminyak's polish. A simple plan that works for many first-timers: a few easy days in Sanur or Ubud to settle in, then a stretch on the coast at Canggu, Seminyak or Uluwatu. And if you are heading on to the Gili Islands, base your last Bali nights near Sanur or Padangbai to make the boat connection painless.

A week is not long for an island as varied as Bali, but it is enough to get a real taste if you resist the urge to see everything. The trick is to pick two or three bases and travel slowly between them. Here is a relaxed first-timer's route. Days 1 to 2: Sanur or Ubud, to arrive and adjust. If you land jet-lagged, ease in. Sanur offers calm beaches and a gentle pace; Ubud offers rice terraces, temples and cool air. Either is a soft landing after a long flight. Days 3 to 4: Ubud and central Bali. Spend a full day in and around Ubud, taking in the market and palace, a rice-terrace walk, a temple or two, and an afternoon spa or yoga class. Use a car with driver for a day trip to the central highlands: a water temple, a waterfall, and a viewpoint or volcano. Days 5 to 6: the south coast. Move to Canggu, Seminyak or Uluwatu for surf, beach clubs, sunset bars and dining. Choose Canggu for a younger surf scene, Seminyak for polish, Uluwatu for clifftop drama. Day 7: slow down before you fly. Keep the last day light, with a final beach, a long lunch and last-minute shopping, and stay somewhere close to the airport so the departure is stress-free. Two pieces of advice. First, do not over-schedule: Bali's traffic is real, and an hour on a map can be two on the road. Second, build in a buffer if you are continuing to the Gili Islands or Nusa Penida by boat, as fast-boat schedules can slip in bad weather. Better to lose a relaxed afternoon than a flight.

Lombok is Bali's quieter neighbour, just east across the strait, and it rewards travellers willing to trade polish for space. It is wilder, less developed and more grounded, defined by a great volcano, empty surf and the Sasak people whose culture sets it apart. Mount Rinjani. Indonesia's second-highest volcano dominates the island, and trekking it, a tough two- or three-day climb to a crater lake and hot springs, is the headline adventure. You do not have to summit to enjoy the highlands: the waterfalls and cool villages around Senaru and Tetebatu are rewarding day trips on their own. The south coast. Around Kuta Lombok, a string of wide bays holds some of Indonesia's best uncrowded surf and beaches, from beginner-friendly Selong Belanak to the heavy reef at Mawi. The sand here is soft and pale, the water clear, and the crowds a fraction of Bali's. Sasak culture. Most Lombok people are Sasak, predominantly Muslim, with a heritage of weaving, music and traditional villages. Visiting a village such as Sade, or buying songket and ikat textiles directly from the weavers, is one of the island's most genuine experiences. The Gili Islands. Lombok is the gateway to the famous Gilis, Trawangan, Meno and Air, reached in minutes by boat from Bangsal in the north. Beyond them lie the quieter secret Gilis off Sekotong in the southwest. Getting around. Lombok is bigger and emptier than Bali, so distances take time. A car with driver is the easiest way to cover ground; confident riders rent scooters. Roads to the best beaches can be rough, worth it for where they end up. Come to Lombok for nature over nightlife, and for a version of island Indonesia that feels a step further from the crowds.

Mount Rinjani, at 3,726 metres Indonesia's second-highest volcano, is the great adventure of Lombok: a demanding multi-day trek to a crater rim, a sacred lake and hot springs, with sunrise views that reach as far as Bali. It is genuinely hard, genuinely rewarding, and worth preparing for. The routes. Most treks start from Senaru in the north or Sembalun in the east. Sembalun gives easier access to the summit; Senaru is the classic crater-rim and lake route. Options run from a two-day, one-night rim trek to a three-day traverse taking in the summit, the crater lake (Segara Anak) and the hot springs. Fitness and conditions. This is not a casual hike. Expect long days, steep loose scree near the summit, cold nights at altitude and very early starts for sunrise. A reasonable level of fitness and broken-in footwear make a big difference. The mountain typically closes in the wet season, roughly January to March, and around extreme weather, so check before you plan. Guides and permits. You must trek with a licensed guide and porters, and pay the national park entrance fee. Reputable operators handle permits, food, tents and the climb itself; choose one with good safety practices and fair treatment of porters rather than the cheapest quote. What to bring. Layers for cold summits and warm days, a headtorch, sun protection, plenty of water and snacks, and some cash. Porters carry the heavy gear, but you carry your own day pack. Respect the mountain. Rinjani is sacred to the Sasak and Balinese, and a fragile environment under pressure from its own popularity. Carry out everything you bring in, and stick to the trails. If a multi-day climb is too much, the lower trails and waterfalls around Senaru offer a taste of Rinjani's scenery for far less effort, and still some of the best views on the island.

Kuta Lombok, not to be confused with its louder namesake in Bali, is the relaxed capital of southern Lombok's surf coast. A few years ago it was a sleepy village; today it is a growing hub of boutique stays, cafes and surf camps, still wrapped around some of the most beautiful bays in Indonesia. The beaches. Kuta sits at the centre of a string of wide, pale-sand bays. Tanjung Aan, with its soft sand and calm water, is the postcard; Selong Belanak is a long, gentle crescent perfect for beginners; Mawun, Seger and Tampah reward a short drive with space and quiet. The Mandalika area, with its MotoGP circuit, has brought new roads and development to the east. The surf. This is one of Indonesia's best surf regions, and the breaks are graded for every level. Selong Belanak is the classic beginner beach; Gerupuk Bay, reached by boat, has several breaks from mellow to punchy; Ekas and Mawi step things up for intermediate and advanced surfers. Lessons, board rental and surf camps are easy to arrange in town. Where to stay. Kuta town has the most options, from guesthouses and surf camps to a handful of design-led boutique hotels, within walking distance of cafes and the beach. For more seclusion, the bays to the west and east have quieter resorts and villas, though you will want transport. Getting around. The town is walkable, but the best beaches are spread along the coast, so rent a scooter if you are confident or arrange a driver. Roads have improved a lot but can still be rough off the main routes. Practicalities. Kuta is far quieter and cheaper than southern Bali, with a slower build of nightlife, more beach bars and live music than clubs. Bring cash, take the sun seriously, and give yourself longer than you think; most people who come to Kuta Lombok end up staying longer.

The coast around Kuta Lombok is a run of wide bays and surf breaks, each with its own character. Here is an orientation to the best of them, west to east. Selong Belanak. A long, gentle crescent of pale sand and the friendliest surf on the coast, the place almost everyone learns. Soft sandy bottom, mellow waves, and a row of warungs renting boards and serving lunch. Calm enough to simply swim, too. Mawun. A horseshoe bay between green headlands, quieter than Selong Belanak and lovely for a relaxed beach day. The waves can pick up, so check conditions before you swim out. Mawi. A powerful, hollow reef break that draws experienced surfers when it is working. Beautiful to look at, but the currents and rocky bottom make it a spot for confident surfers only. Tanjung Aan. The signature Kuta Lombok beach: two scallops of soft, almost powdery sand and calm, shallow water ideal for swimming and easy snorkelling. Climb the small hill at the eastern end for the classic view over both bays. Seger. Just east of Kuta town, known for sunsets and an intermediate surf break, and the setting for the annual Bau Nyale sea-worm festival. Gerupuk Bay. A protected bay reached by a short boat ride, with several breaks ranging from beginner-friendly to challenging. A reliable choice when the open beaches are too big, and a favourite of the surf camps. Ekas Bay. Further east and quieter, with two main breaks, a mellow inside and a heavier outside, and a remote, end-of-the-road feel. A few notes. Many of these beaches have little shade and few facilities, so bring water, sun protection and cash. Conditions change with tide and swell, so ask locally before surfing an unfamiliar break, and never underestimate the currents on the open south coast.

There are no airports on the Gili Islands, so every visitor arrives the same way: by boat. The Gilis sit off the northwest coast of Lombok, and you can reach them from either Bali or the Lombok mainland. From Bali, fast boats are the usual choice. Most leave from Padangbai or Serangan near Sanur, with a few from Amed in the northeast. The crossing takes roughly two to three hours depending on the operator, the sea, and how many stops the boat makes. In high season and rough weather, schedules slip, so build in a buffer day before any onward flight out of Bali. From Lombok, the trip is shorter and cheaper. Public boats run from Bangsal harbour in the north, just a 10 to 15 minute hop to Gili Air or Gili Trawangan. If you fly into Lombok International Airport in the south, it is a 1.5 to 2 hour drive up to Bangsal, then the short crossing. A few things worth knowing before you book. Fast-boat safety varies between operators, so choose an established company rather than the cheapest ticket. Boats land on the beach, not at a pier, so you wade the last few metres; pack a dry bag and shoes you do not mind getting wet. A small harbour or eco tax is collected on arrival on each island. Once you are on an island, getting around is simple because there are no cars or motorbikes. You walk, hire a bicycle, or take a cidomo, the small pony-drawn cart that serves as the local taxi. Island-hopping between Trawangan, Meno and Air is done on the public shuttle boat, which runs a couple of times a day on a fixed loop. Plan your return the same way you arrive: book the boat back at least a day ahead in busy periods, and never cut it fine with a same-day connection to an international flight.

The three Gili Islands look similar from a boat: white sand, clear water, no cars. But each has a distinct personality, and choosing the right one shapes your whole trip. Gili Trawangan is the largest and liveliest. "Gili T" has the broadest range of accommodation, the most restaurants and dive shops, and by far the busiest nightlife, including the islands' famous full-moon parties. The east coast is where the action is; the quieter west side has the sunset swings and the calmest snorkelling. Choose Trawangan if you want options, a social scene, and somewhere that still has a pulse after dark. Gili Meno is the opposite: the smallest and quietest of the three, with only a handful of bars and a slow, unhurried feel. It is the honeymoon island. Couples come here for privacy, and snorkellers come for the turtles and the underwater statues just offshore. Choose Meno if your idea of a good day is a book, a hammock and very little else. Gili Air sits in the middle, both geographically and in spirit. It is the closest island to Lombok, with calm, swimmable lagoons, a friendly dive scene and beach bars that stay relaxed rather than raucous. It has enough going on that you will not be bored, but never feels crowded. Choose Air if you cannot decide; it is the balanced pick, and the one most people end up recommending. A few practical notes. All three are walkable in an hour or two, and you can island-hop between them on the public shuttle boat. Trawangan has the most ATMs and the best-stocked shops; Meno has the fewest, so bring cash. Prices are broadly similar, though Trawangan has both the cheapest backpacker beds and the priciest boutique stays. If you have time, you do not have to choose. Many travellers split a week, with a few lively nights on Trawangan and a quiet stretch on Meno or Air, and get the best of all three.

The Gili Islands are a year-round destination, but the experience changes with the seasons. Like the rest of Lombok and Bali, the Gilis have two: a dry season from roughly April to October, and a wetter season from November to March. The dry season is the most popular time to visit. Days are sunny, the sea is calm and clear, and visibility for diving and snorkelling is at its best. The trade-off is crowds and higher prices, which peak in July and August and again around Christmas and New Year. If you want dry-season weather without the crush, aim for the shoulder months of May, June and September, which tend to offer the best balance of good conditions and smaller crowds. The wet season is not a write-off. Rain usually comes in short, heavy bursts rather than all-day downpours, and there is still plenty of sunshine between them. Prices drop, the islands feel calmer, and the diving can still be excellent on clear days. The main downsides are the occasional rough crossing, as fast boats from Bali are more likely to be delayed, and slightly reduced underwater visibility after heavy rain. Water temperature stays warm all year, generally around 28 to 29 degrees, so a thin wetsuit or none at all is fine for most divers. Sea turtles are present year-round, which is one of the Gilis' biggest draws regardless of season. If your trip is built around a specific event, such as a Gili Trawangan full-moon party, check the lunar calendar and book accommodation well ahead, as those dates fill fast in any season. Otherwise, for most travellers the sweet spot is the dry-season shoulder: reliable weather, calmer seas, and the islands at their relaxed best.

The Gili Islands are one of Southeast Asia's most popular places to learn to dive, and for good reason: warm, clear water, gentle conditions, an easy pace of life, and a ring of dive sites within a short boat ride of all three islands. The marine-life headline is turtles. Green and hawksbill turtles are common on the reefs around the Gilis, and a snorkel or dive where you share the water with several of them is an ordinary day here, not a lucky one. Beyond turtles you will see reef fish in abundance, rays, the occasional reef shark, healthy coral in the better-protected areas, and some artificial reef and underwater sculpture installations. For divers, the Gilis are a major training hub. The islands operate a shared standard among dive centres, with consistent pricing and a rotation of the main sites so the reefs are not overcrowded. It is a good place to take an Open Water course, as conditions are forgiving, or to log relaxed fun dives if you are already certified. Popular sites include shallow reefs ideal for beginners and a few deeper walls and drift dives for the more experienced. Snorkellers are well served too. You can snorkel straight off the beach in several spots, particularly on the calmer west and north coasts, and most shops and many hotels run snorkelling boat trips that loop the three islands and stop at the best turtle spots and the underwater statues. A few responsible-travel notes. Do not touch or stand on the coral, keep a respectful distance from turtles, and never chase them for a photo. Reef-safe sunscreen helps protect the same reefs you came to see. Currents between the islands can be stronger than they look, so snorkel within your limits and ask locally about conditions before swimming out far. Whether you are nervously breathing underwater for the first time or quietly clocking your hundredth dive, the Gilis make it easy, which is exactly why so many people come for two days and leave a week later.

Gili Trawangan is the only one of the three Gili Islands with a genuine nightlife, and for a tiny car-free island it punches well above its weight. If you have come to the Gilis to dance, this is where you stay. The scene is concentrated along the east coast, where most of the bars, beach clubs and restaurants line the strip facing Lombok. Evenings tend to start slowly, with sunset drinks on the beach and dinner at one of the seafood barbecues where you pick your fish from the ice, before the bars build through the night. Venues take turns hosting the bigger nights, so the crowd tends to move together from one place to the next rather than splitting up. The island's signature event is the full-moon party. Held around each full moon, it is the busiest night of the month, with bigger crowds, visiting DJs and a party that runs late on the beach. If your trip lines up with a full moon and you want to be there, book accommodation well ahead, as rooms fill fast around those dates, and expect higher prices. Beyond the headline nights, Trawangan's nightlife is more relaxed than its reputation suggests. There is live music, low-key reggae bars, and plenty of places to have a couple of drinks without committing to a big night. The west side of the island stays quiet, so if you want to party one night and sleep the next, you can simply choose where to base yourself. A few sensible notes. Drinks can be strong and the island has no hospital, so pace yourself, and be cautious about anything offered on the street. There are no cars, but bicycles and cidomo carts move around at night, so watch where you walk on the unlit paths. And whatever time you get in, the snorkelling is still there in the morning.

If Gili Trawangan is the party island and Gili Air the all-rounder, Gili Meno is the one you come to for each other. The smallest and quietest of the three Gilis has long been the honeymoon choice, and it wears that reputation well. There is, deliberately, not much to do, and that is the point. Meno is a slow loop of white sand you can walk in under an hour, fringed by shallow reef and dotted with a handful of beachfront bungalows and barefoot bars. Days here are built around the water and the shade: a snorkel before it gets hot, a long lunch, a hammock, a sunset, repeat. The snorkelling is genuinely special. Green turtles are common in the shallows, and just off the west coast you will find the underwater statues, a ring of human figures on the seabed that has become one of the most photographed sights in the Gilis. You can reach it straight from the beach with a mask and fins. Inland, a small salt lake and patches of forest give the island a wilder, quieter character than its neighbours. Accommodation runs from simple bamboo bungalows to a few genuinely lovely boutique retreats with private terraces and over-water decks. Because Meno is small and popular with couples, the best places book out early, especially in the dry season, so reserve ahead rather than hoping to find something on arrival. A couple of practical notes. Meno has the fewest shops and ATMs of the three islands, so bring enough cash for your stay. There is very little nightlife, which is exactly why people choose it; if you want one big night out, Trawangan is a short hop away on the shuttle boat and you can be back by morning. Come to Meno with low expectations of doing anything and high expectations of doing nothing well. It is, for the right couple, the most romantic corner of the Gilis.