Gili Air travel guide: where to stay, eat and get around

Gili Air is the closest of the three Gili Islands to Lombok and, for many travellers, the easiest to love. It has the calm, swimmable beaches of Meno and a slice of Trawangan's social energy, without the crowds or the late nights of either. If you want one island that does a bit of everything, this is it. Where to stay. Accommodation on Gili Air runs from simple backpacker bungalows to a growing number of stylish boutique stays, most a short walk from the beach. The east and south coasts are the busiest, with the most restaurants and dive shops; the north and west are quieter and better for sunsets and snorkelling straight off the sand. Book ahead in the dry season, when the best places fill early. Where to eat. For its size, Gili Air eats very well. You will find beachfront warungs serving fresh grilled fish, healthy cafes with smoothie bowls and good coffee, and a handful of pizza, Indian and seafood spots. Many bars do a sunset happy hour on the west coast; dinner tends to be relaxed and barefoot rather than formal. Getting around. There are no cars or motorbikes, which is half the appeal. You walk, hire a bicycle for a few dollars a day, or flag down a cidomo, the small pony-drawn cart that doubles as the island taxi. The whole island loops in about an hour and a half on foot, so most people never need more than their own two feet. Practicalities. Gili Air has a few ATMs, but they can run dry, so bring some cash from the mainland. There is no hospital, only basic clinics, so travel sensibly. The water is warm year-round and the snorkelling, turtles included, starts just off the beach. To reach the other islands, hop on the public shuttle boat between Air, Meno and Trawangan. Come for a couple of days, and do not be surprised if you end up rebooking your boat for later in the week.