Lombok travel guide: Rinjani, surf and Sasak culture

Lombok is Bali's quieter neighbour, just east across the strait, and it rewards travellers willing to trade polish for space. It is wilder, less developed and more grounded, defined by a great volcano, empty surf and the Sasak people whose culture sets it apart. Mount Rinjani. Indonesia's second-highest volcano dominates the island, and trekking it, a tough two- or three-day climb to a crater lake and hot springs, is the headline adventure. You do not have to summit to enjoy the highlands: the waterfalls and cool villages around Senaru and Tetebatu are rewarding day trips on their own. The south coast. Around Kuta Lombok, a string of wide bays holds some of Indonesia's best uncrowded surf and beaches, from beginner-friendly Selong Belanak to the heavy reef at Mawi. The sand here is soft and pale, the water clear, and the crowds a fraction of Bali's. Sasak culture. Most Lombok people are Sasak, predominantly Muslim, with a heritage of weaving, music and traditional villages. Visiting a village such as Sade, or buying songket and ikat textiles directly from the weavers, is one of the island's most genuine experiences. The Gili Islands. Lombok is the gateway to the famous Gilis, Trawangan, Meno and Air, reached in minutes by boat from Bangsal in the north. Beyond them lie the quieter secret Gilis off Sekotong in the southwest. Getting around. Lombok is bigger and emptier than Bali, so distances take time. A car with driver is the easiest way to cover ground; confident riders rent scooters. Roads to the best beaches can be rough, worth it for where they end up. Come to Lombok for nature over nightlife, and for a version of island Indonesia that feels a step further from the crowds.